THE SUPERB AND UNEXPECTED ON EVERY PAGE
STAY CONNECTED
THE COLLECTION
A HOUSE REBORN
The historic Italian fashion house Sergio Soldano returns with a renewed creative vision under Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella, unveiling a sculptural Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection that blends heritage craftsmanship with modern
architectural design.
Some fashion houses do not simply relaunch. They return with the kind of visual confidence that reminds the industry why they mattered in the first place. That is the case with Sergio Soldano, the Italian label founded in 1968 and long admired for its bold geometry, sculptural silhouettes, and expressive approach to dressing women. Soldano’s creations dressed some of the most celebrated women of the era, including Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Monica Vitti, and Virna Lisi, earning the designer a place among the defining figures of Italian luxury fashion.
Now revived under the creative direction of Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella, the house has returned with a Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection that feels both disciplined and daring. Rather than revisiting archival pieces, the designers reinterpret Soldano’s visual language through strong architectural lines, rich materials, and graphic prints that echo the urban landscapes and cultural memory of Italy.
Across the collection, the silhouette is deliberate. Caped coats cut in structured wool create dramatic volume while remaining clean and precise. Leather dresses bloom with intricate three-dimensional floral appliqués that transform classic tailoring into sculptural surfaces. There is movement throughout the line, garments designed to shift and reveal shape as the wearer walks.
Graphic storytelling plays an equally strong role. Silk separates and flowing dresses feature finely illustrated architectural motifs recalling Italian palazzi and historic city facades. These prints appear across skirts, blouses, boots, and handbags, turning the entire look into a composed visual narrative. Elsewhere, ornamental patterns in deep blues and soft neutrals introduce a refined sense of European decorative tradition into contemporary ready to wear.
Color moves confidently through the collection. Deep blacks and midnight tones anchor the more architectural pieces, while shades of moss green and airy neutrals bring fluidity to chiffon dresses and layered silhouettes. A striking pink cape coat adds a moment of bold femininity, a reminder of Soldano’s long standing love of color and statement dressing.
Accessories reinforce the house’s emphasis on craftsmanship. Structured leather handbags echo the collection’s graphic themes, while tall boots and sculpted heels extend the line of the silhouette from head to toe, creating looks that feel cohesive and unmistakably Italian.
The return of Sergio Soldano arrived as the fashion world gathered around one of New York’s most culturally charged stages, the Whitney Biennial. Among those embracing the revived house was Candace Bushnell, the author whose chronicling of Manhattan life helped define a generation’s relationship with fashion and identity.
Bushnell appeared wearing Sergio Soldano at the Whitney Biennial opening, marking one of the first cultural moments for the house since its revival. The pairing felt natural, a New York storyteller stepping out in an Italian fashion legacy as it finds its place again in the conversation.
For Sergio Soldano, the message is clear. The house is not revisiting history. It is writing its next chapter through sculptural silhouettes, expressive prints, and confident color.